Column introduction
We never lack fashion information and popular bloggers
But it is not enough to wear skills alone
“Bad Street” and “Quality“
Need to understandFashion industryThe logic behind
This course will be in one year
bring youFashionDoor
Learn the realQuality wearing
You will get
Actually improve your clothing
Define your social status with clothing
Doty on different occasions
Has quality matching skills
Freshly known secrets in the fashion industry
The way of “good clothes” and “Taobao goods”
people suitble
*Those who want to wear fashion and hope to learn actual combat skills
*People who are pursuing and pursuing and wanting to improve their fashion taste
*People who love fashion, hope to deeply understand the history of fashion and essence
*I plan to switch to people who invest in the fashion industry
Introduction to the lecturer
Cold
Leng Yun, Ph.D., fashion writer, commentator, business consultant, training instructor (buyer, corporate management, entrepreneurial class, etc.).
Its recent activities include: 2019 Shenzhen Fashion Week judges.Judge of the 2018 “China Cup” clothing design contest.In the 2018 Harvard Center “Women’s Forum” special guest.The 20th Annual Conference of International Foundation Technology Institutes in 2018.
Its cooperative media and knowledge paid platforms include “BOF Fashion Business Review”, “Weekend Pictorial”, “Sanlian Life Weekly”, Zhihu, etc.Its training targets include Vipshop, Herki, Sanfu Department Store, and Handu Clothing.Its business cooperation (writing, advertising, activities, etc.) includes JD.com, OLAY, Yaying, etc.
Leng Yun won the Fulbright Scholars Award by the US government in 2013-14.In the same year, Leng Yun was a visiting scholar at the Parsons School of Design.Its research field is mainly compared with the Chinese and Western fashion system.Leng Yun has worked in the clothing industry for nearly 15 years.He used to work in Nike, Belle and Lifeng Group.
Leng Yun’s main publishing works include “Chinese Fashion: Dialogue Chinese Clothing Designer” and “Fashion Buyer Practical Manual” (in 2011 by China Textile Press, now the 2nd edition, the 6th printing) is another main book.book.
Improve your clothing | What is fashion, how is fashion born?
1. Different fashion and clothing
In our course, talking about fashion is inseparable from clothing,But fashion is not just clothing in our definition.In ancient times, there were clothing. In the early days, ancient people used animal skin or leaves of trees as clothes to cover their bodies.As for the reasons for the birth of clothing, historians and archaeologists gave various answers. Some people think that the clothing was originally to decorate the body. Some people think that it is to keep warm and some people think it is to cover up.So clothing has been available for a long time.
For fashion, we must first define what is fashion.The definitions of fashion in different theoretical circles are different, but in general, there are three scholars in fashion that most of the scholars are more agreed.First of all, fashion refers to clothing, makeup, or matching that conforms to the spirit of the current era; secondly fashion must be popular. The so -called popularity is that it has a certain audience. There will be a group of people to wear such clothing or some makeup; the third is to be; the third is to be; the third is to be; the third is to be; the third is to be; the third is to be; the third is to be; the third is to be; the third is to be; the third is to be; the third is to be; the third is to be; the third is to be; the third is to be; the third is to be; the third is to be; the third is to be; the third is to be; the third is to be; the third is to be; the third is to be; the third is to be; the third is to be.When we talk about clothing, we usually talk about material, and when we talk about fashion, we usually talk about a certain spirit, a certain culture.In the western academic circles, fashion is often regarded as a social phenomenon, which means that fashion represents a certain social class: it can reflect a certain social system;It can also be a colonialism.Of course, fashion is related to the process of modernization. When you study social history, you will find that it also represents the journey of human beings moving towards modernization and civilization.So fashion is not just about dressing.
2. Talk about the background of the birth of fashion from the perspective of poly studies
We will find that the word “fashion” appears earlier in China than in the West.What we know now knows the word Fashion, the earliest meaning is “shape”. It was not until the 16th century that it was clearly pointed out that it was “fashion”.In China, since the Tang Dynasty, the word “Shi Shi Makeup” appeared; in the Northern Song Dynasty, the word “time” appeared in a poem named Chen Shidao.style.According to the research of Western scholars, the words “popular”, “fashionable”, and “fashion” that eventually appeared in Europe in the 13th century.Therefore, the word “fashion” appears earlier in China.
3. Talk about the birth of fashion from a historical perspective
Basically, in the entire fashion industry and academic world, we will be used as a sign of the birth of modern fashion in the nineteenth century.The term “advanced customization” comes from the French “Haute Couture”. Born in Charles Worth, Paris, France, it is known as the father of advanced customization. Because from him, the tailor has his own design creativity.Prior to this, tailoring was the occupation that served guests and followed the requirements of guests.In countries like France, clothing has strict regulations. It has strict social classes. It has also experienced such an era in China and other countries.And Worth started creating his own studio in the middle of the nineteenth century (about 1850) to serve the French royal family.Through his wisdom, he accepted the French queen at that time to accept the clothing he designed, and finally made the clothing he designed a popularity.And since Worth, the clothing business has been integrated into the concept of design and marketing, which is closely related to the development of society at that time.So we set the advanced customization of Wos in the middle of the nineteenth century as the starting point of modern fashion.
4. What is advanced customization?
The French “Haute Couture” is a word protected by law, and not anyone can use it at will.There is no such regulation in Chinese, so Chinese designers can call their work “advanced customization”, but they cannot be called “haute core”.There is an industry association in France called the “Advanced Trade Union”, which can be used to determine whether the word “HAUTE COUTURE” can be used.There are several conditions to use the term “Haute Couture”. The first condition must provide customized services for individuals; the second is the hard condition -must be set up in Paris, and there must be 15 employees; the third rigidity must beThe requirement is that the studio must have 20 full -time technical workers; the fourth condition is to participate in the annual Paris Advanced Customs Week.Senior customization gradually declined at the beginning of World War I, and almost declined during World War II.After World War II, the entire society developed rapidly, with high -end clothing and mass clothes, and machinery and industrialization became a common phenomenon. People can buy clothes from the store and shopping malls, and the competition between clothing companies is fierce.It was followed, so the advanced customization gradually declined.
Today we talk “What is fashion and how fashion is born?“That’s it, let’s talk to you about the next class. Thank you for reading.
【Reading List】
TOLLU, CHANTAL (2018) The House of Worth: The Birth of Haute Couture, London: Thames & Hudson.
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